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Thessaloniki: Hellenic Adventures impatient youth

On 14 November, following municipal elections Greek ecologist Yiannis Boutaris was elected mayor of Thessaloniki with only 419 votes ahead of his conservative rival. It is a small revolution for the city led by the Conservatives for 24 years. 24 years is precisely the age of Michaelis and Elisabeth, which however did not wait for these elections to devote their energy to changing their hometown. This young couple fresh out of journalism school, we had thus opened his city and, during our wanderings, we found all the attachment they felt for her.

Capital Balkan

After the tentacular Athens, stroll through the streets of Thessaloniki offers a breath of fresh air: the contrast between the two cities we mentioned the difference in quality of life between Paris and Lyon. Open port on the northern Aegean Sea, the city is nestled in the Gulf Thermaic as an arm hugging the sea cityscape, seemingly anarchic, conceals many ancient ruins of old Byzantine churches and surrounded sometimes choked by senior contemporary buildings. Rebuilt in 1917 following a fire that destroyed the old city is the French architect Ernest Evrard which gave it its present appearance by drawing large arteries parallel, such as pedestrian and Aristotellous Gounaris, connecting the old city on the hill overlooking the waterfront and this simple organization allows visitors to always identify from the sea and gives the impression of a pleasant city airy and easy to understand.

On the Corniche recently refurbished all generations meet, fascinated by the spectacle of the sea rough swell day and dazzling lights of sunset. Here, a century ago were mixed Sephardic Jews, Turks, Muslims, Orthodox Greeks, Bulgarians and Westerners making Thessaloniki Capital of the Balkans. But the image of Turkey and Greece today, the city has been homogenized: a consequence of the "Great Disaster". In 1923, after the defeat by Greece against Turkey, a population exchange agreement was concluded bringing 1.5 million Orthodox Greeks to leave Anatolia, where they lived for several millennia, and conversely the Turks are Muslims exiled from Greece. Among these victims of the construction of nation-states, the great-grandparents of Elizabeth, who lived in the area Pontou located southeast of the Black Sea, have been forced to move to Thessaloniki. Later, the deportation to Auschwitz of substantially all of the Jewish community has somehow completed the process of cultural homogenization of the city. Today, with an agglomeration of a little over a million people, Thessaloniki is Greece's second city and, following the eastward enlargement of the European Union, the city revives its vocation regional capital. Economic exchanges are increasing with Bulgaria: Saloniciens cross the border frequently and Bulgarian to go shopping, establish enterprises, enjoy skiing or just a tank of gas.

love their city, Michaelis and Elizabeth are a critical eye on it all the more sharp, pointing in particular transportation issues. With 900,000 daily trips made by car and only 1 of 4 Salonicien using public transportation, only consisting of buses, the streets are constantly blocked by traffic and parking anarchy (66% of vehicles are parked illegally). This also has consequences in terms of pollution: the concentration of particulate pollutants in the atmosphere exceeding the thresholds set by the European Union average of 250 days a year! For the young couple, the subway line currently under construction which will cover the downtown will not solve the problem only partially linked to the spread of the conurbation. He also recalls that the geography of the city naturally calls for the development of public transport maritime existed elsewhere until the early 50/60. As such, the municipality has also envisaged the creation of two shipping lines: one bus running along the ledge and the other connecting the port to the peripheral city of Kalamaria. Another important problem is the lack of public spaces and green spaces, in fact there has only 2.5 m2 of green space per capita by integrating forests around!

Thessaloniki otherwise

So when on his 20th birthday, the local newspaper for which he works Parrallaxis decided to organize more than just a birthday party but a series of Major events for 'change city', it is natural that Michaelis has launched body and soul into the adventure. With dozen others, they form the core of the project Allyos Thessaloniki, 'Thessaloniki otherwise, who for two days on 5 and 6 June this year, has changed the face of the city at a rate of 65 transactions, 15 architectural and artistic interventions , 16 concerts, 10 theatrical performances, street performers and strolling in cycling and rollerblading mobilizing over 250 volunteers and 30,000 participants.

We're back with Michael and Elizabeth on the few places where the events took place the most significant to them. They show us those art-nouveau buildings of the early last century, abandoned, trapped between tall buildings modern erased. Last June, these buildings have been invested by architects analyze their structures and explaining their history on posters and musicians to give concerts. A little later, the grim street Ernest Evrard, narrow alley lined with buildings half abandoned matches "everything the city has to pay tribute to him who gave it its present appearance, was illuminated by dozens small small lights suspended in an atmosphere reminiscent of the festival of lights Lyon. Hundreds of people were then made in this enchanted alley to attend an evening concert of swing and flamenco show in the program. Finally, Michael takes us on a small plot planted some trees and benches, he proudly explained before, there was nothing here, only a row of garbage containers. We sit on a bench in front of us old people are sitting and talking, a neighbor passing rebuke ... For Michael, it's the most emblematic achievement of Thessaloniki allyos one that best illustrates the new face that could take the city: a city more open, peppered with warm hospitable public spaces. But it was not easy, he first had to convince the people after long hours of discussion, raising the suspicion and misunderstanding in respect of these young people who want to change the city volunteer! But finally they agreed and some have even put his hand to the paw such merchant pulling an extension so that the team has electricity, another making coffee or something to eat. The lines have changed, people have invested in their neighborhoods and even if it is just an area of 100 m2 why not extend this momentum it not to the entire city? The project still met its limits: the team of Thessaloniki allyos wanted students in visual arts carry a big mural on the faded plaster of the building that overlooks the new plot. Volunteers spent several days in the building to knock on every door, trying to convince of the merits of the project, but these efforts failed. Today we can read a tag on the wall revealing: "Think the impossible before it is impossible to believe" ...

So even if the new mayor raises hopes and no matter what policies, for Michael and Elizabeth's residents, through their initiative, to change their city. Full of energy and desire, but distrustful of institutions, the impatient youth develops its own emancipatory philosophy based on self-organization of citizens: "If I want to change something, I must take matters into their hands without expect from the state and try to do something for myself with my friends, my neighbors ...», "Complaining is not enough, it's time to take action, to organize, to form groups more or less likely bringing people who want the same things and take action to change things. I think it's entirely possible today. "And the momentum is initiated, Thessaloniki allyos should soon take the form of a genuine and permanent organization today, five months after the event, requests are pouring ever to take part in the movement.

Source of data on transport in Thessaloniki: http://peiratesalonica.blogspot.com/